Yea, after setting it to the right setting, it magically worked...12K sounds all wrong. It takes a lot of power to move the solenoid fast inside the injector.
they're supposed to read around 12k ohms if 'healthy'. What's very odd is that I checked what I think is 4 and it was fine and showing around 11k. I then checked 5 and 6 and both showed 0k ohms! I went back to 4 and the reading changed and jumped up to 18k. So I'm not sure what's going on there...
A quick Goo search for Mazda injectors said 12 - 17 ohms, which sounds about right. Adding: it seems you discovered an ID-10-T issue too. Been there, done that!
To me, 11K would indicate an "open" coil in injector. Replace.
Fix the obvious wiring issues, then test that the injector has power. If that's mouse damage, there may be more damage around where the cables go into the ECM. Mouse damage tends to not be everywhere, but in just a few locations, where they can also hide.
As to just replacing the wiring harness, my guess is that would be so expensive that junking the car might be a better option.
As far as the wiring goes, I may try to splice the individual wires that are bad in the section pictured. I think I may just need 2-3 sections from the looks of it. Looks like I need to get 18ga automotive specific wiring (TXL or GXL) to avoid any complications as well and best to solder/heatshrink then wrap with good tape?
Statistics: Posted by jplee3 — Sat Feb 14, 2026 3:55 pm — Replies 22 — Views 705