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Personal Consumer Issues • Garage Masonry and Foundation project questions

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If this were mine and I didn't want to spend a lot on the floor, I'd add tapered piece to the bottom of the garage door to fill the gap and repoint the mortar where required.

Of course this depends on the level of appearance you require.
I actually did this for my current garage when I first moved in and had a taper of close to two inches across the opening. I cut a treated 2x4 into a long thin wedge and screwed it to the bottom of the garage door and reattached the seal to the bottom of that. I painted the wood white and it served fine for five or six years until I repoured the entire garage floor and driveway. Not one person ever noticed it or made a comment in all those years with the wood shim.

In my case, the garage floor was supposed to be a floating slab but the genius who poured it didn't use anything to separate it from the footers and just left a cold joint. The garage was built on fill in one corner and settled about three inches in that corner, catching the slab and pushing down on the it causing it to buckle severely. Between the high point and the low point inside my garage was 16 inches. After repouring the garage and driveway, I also jacked up the settled corner of the garage the three inches so that my garage header was now true again and installed a new garage door.

Statistics: Posted by lthenderson — Tue Aug 20, 2024 6:05 pm — Replies 12 — Views 522



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